Around The World: Austrian Sachertorte

Why Austria went to war over a chocolate cake

It’s undeniably one the the most iconic chocolate desserts in the world. In the edition of my Illustrated Bakes from Around the World series we are taking a trip to Austria. I love this series because I am learning so much about where these desserts come from and how they came to be, and this is one of my personal favourite stories so far…one sick boss, an unexpected opportunity, and an improvised cake later and we have the Sachertorte! It’s classy, it’s elegant, and it’s iconic.

Let there be no shame on me tonight!

The story of the Sachertorte dates back to 1832, in the heart of Vienna, when Prince Metternich commissioned his kitchen to create a special dessert. At the time, Franz Sacher was a young apprentice chef, just 16 years old. Panic struck when the head chef fell ill just before an Imperial Chancellor’s dinner, and young Franz was left to take on the challenge of creating a memorable desert himself. Legend has it the prince said to Sacher, “let there be no shame on me tonight!” and with limited ingredients and under pressure, Sacher improvised and made a decadent chocolate cake with apricot jam filling and chocolate ganache. This would of course go on to become what we know now as the Sachertorte. This flavour pairing was viewed unusual and innovative at the time, and quickly became popular amongst the elite.

The Cake War: Sacher vs. Demel

If you’ve read any of my other Around The World blogs, you’ll know by now that I love a good dessert battle. Imagine a cake so good that people will literally go to court to defend it as their own.

After Franz Sacher created the original Sachertorte, the recipe stayed in the family. His son, Eduard Sacher, perfected it and eventually opened the famous Hotel Sacher in Vienna in 1876, where the cake became a signature specialty.

But here’s where things get interesting… while Eduard has been perfecting the recipe, he had been working at the prestigious Viennese pastry shop, Demel. When he left to set up Hotel Sacher, there was a dispute over who then had the authentic recipe and the right to call their cake the Original Sachertorte.

This disagreement sparked a legal battle (famously known as the Sachertorte War). The fight over trademarks and tradition lasted for decades and Sachertorte customers were divided over which was the true Sachertorte.

The conflict was finally settled in 1963, with an agreement that both Hotel Sacher and Demel could make and sell Sachertorte. However, only the Hotel Sacher was allowed to officially use the phrase ‘Original Sachertorte’ on their packaging and advertising. This is just inspiring me to take a trip to Vienna just so I can try both!

Was there a difference? Apparently, yes:

• Hotel Sacher’s version uses a layer of apricot jam both under and on top of the cake, then covered with a smooth chocolate glaze.

• Demel’s version typically has apricot jam only inside the cake and a slightly different glaze texture.

Apparently, many locals have strong opinions on which one is superior. And this rivalry only added to the mystique and allure of the Sachertorte, and making it as famous as it has become.

Anyway…this is my version! (based off the Hotel Sacher’s version)

Make my Sachertorte:

Sponge:

• 200g softened unsalted butter

• 125g icing sugar

• 8 large eggs (separated)

• 1 tsp vanilla extract

• 170g good quality dark chocolate, melted and cooled slightly

• 125g caster sugar

• 185g plain flour

Filling and assembly:

• 300g apricot jam

• 50g caster sugar

• 50ml water

• 200g good quality dark chocolate

• 20g unsalted butter

Method:

1. Pre-heat the oven to 170C (fan)

2. Cream together the butter and icing sugar, until pale and smooth, then add the egg yolks, vanilla and melted chocolate.

3. Mix until smooth, and set aside.

4. Whisk the egg whites until soft peaks, then add the caster sugar 1 tbsp at a time until you have glossy stiff peaks.

5. Mix a little of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to loosen it up, the sift half the flour over the top and fold in, followed by the remaining egg whites and flour alternating and folding in gently until it’s fully combined.

6. Transfer to a greased and lines 9 inch cake tin and bake for around an hour, checking that a knife comes out clean before removing from the oven. It is quite a thick sponge so depending on your oven it may take longer.

7. Leave to cool for 10 minute in the tin before removing and leaving to cool fully.

8. Level off the top of the cake if it has domed, and then carefully cut the cake in half. I find the best way to do this is to score around the cake first and then keep turning the cake as you cut to ensure and even slice!

9. To help with a smooth finish, sieve the jam and then spread a thin layer to sandwich the sponges, and spread the rest evenly around the edges of the cake.

10. Leave for the jam to dry slightly, then make the chocolate glaze.

11. Bring the water and caster sugar to the boil in a saucepan and let it cool slightly.

12. Heat the cream, butter and chocolate together (either in a bowl over a pan of simmering water, or in the microwave in bursts) until smooth and fully melted.

13. Pour the sugar syrup into the chocolate mixture, and stir to combine fully.

14. To check when it is ready to pour, it should be thick enough that it coats the back of a spoon with a thick later, but when you drizzle it back into the bowl, it doesn’t leave a visible trail for very long.

15. Place the cake on a drying rack or something that allows the excess glaze to run off (and probably a baking tray so it doesn’t make a mess!) and pour the glaze all over ensuring all the sides are fully covered.

16. Let it set in the fridge until the glaze is firm enough for you to transfer to a plate or cake stand.

17. Use some of the glaze that spilled onto the tray to put in a piping bag and pipe ‘Sacher’ on top, if you want to be fancy!

18. Apparently, this cake tastes even better the next day, but it will keep for a few days!

Don’t forget to check out my other Illustrated Bakes from Around the World pages to learn more about different delicacies from all over the world, and the stories and recipes behind them!